2009年5月12日 星期二

私房菜@傳說中的崩牙成

話說上星期老闆話帶小弟去食一間私房菜, 咁我問食乜囉??? 老闆回應說..........崩牙成(說時電光一閃, 晴空霹靂........ 頭微微向上仰起, 直有超然物外隱世高人出場之感)!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry, 我孤陋寡聞......... 真係唔識!!!

終於上星期五放工老闆帶咗小弟去上環畢街一間無射燈, 無招牌, 無裝修, 無嘉賓題字, 無制服既一間(百無)私房菜, 席間仲有老闆友人及同事們足有一圍!!

心裡不禁弧疑...... 乜料呀.......崩牙成佢係邊個?????

原來佢係傳奇人物南海十三郎爸爸江太史公個家廚李才既徒弟, 今年九十三歲, 五十年代已做到會和私房菜, 以鮑參翅肚作主打; 出名用料靚兼重手,吃魚翅仿如吃麵;更沿用炭爐煮食,風味一絕;炒飯更妙,煮好後壓平攤在竹筲箕待涼再炒,乾爽分明。不過,崩牙成已退休, 只接熟客生意。熟客係邊啲........你講得出既富豪都食過!!! 以上資料都係小弟食完之後係網上找的, 粗略都有三四十個網站報導, 足見佢個"朵" 幾勁!




講講今晚既菜單:
1. 炒素翅
2. 炒肚尖
3. 炒老虎斑球
4. 扒鮑魚
5. 子薑蒸雞
6. 竹笙鮮菇湯
7. 生炒糯米飯
8. 紅荳沙




用料十足, 不像外邊所吃的魚翅炒旦, 它有芽菜, 魚翅, 旦, 芹菜, 雞絲, 冬菇, 芫荽, 蟹肉, 冬筍絲, 韮王等等. 普通酒樓是無法可以吃到這種桂花翅. 炒得很乾身, 調味料很少, 吃到配菜真正的味道.



一隻豬肚最多可以切出四至五塊小片的肚尖, 試想一大碟肚尖是用多少個肚. 再加上廚師配上欖仁, 椒絲, 韮王, 荀絲, 咸菜絲, 味道突出同埋超爽口!



咁厚既老虎班肉炒起嚟唔多油, 肉又彈牙, 仲要咬落有嚼頭, 但又唔老, 功夫可見一班!!



自問出得大場面少, 吃鮑魚機會不多, 但係今次食的鮑魚真的與眾不同, 獻汁不是那種嗆喉蜜汁金華火腿蠔油味, 是老雞跟火腿再加蠔油配合到剛剛好, 越㗳越濃厚的感覺, 跟鮑魚配在一起, 越越有味, 又不捨得吞落套, 鮑魚有嚼頭.......不太腍, 不太韌.......Perfect!



令我非常驚喜的一味菜, 子薑很清甜而微微帶少辣, 將雞皮的肥膩感辟去.....加上雞肉非常嫩滑(包括雞胸).......子薑的爽配雞肉的嫩滑......絕配!!




非常鮮甜, 同事teresa小姐話好鹹, 我就唔覺, 可能佢外國返嚟食唔慣傳統粵菜嗰種重味道的烹調方法, 同事黎總同我就讚不絕口, 最愛那厚厚的竹笙, 又軟又滑......加埋鮮菇同埋大量芫荽...... 一流!!!!




糯米飯炒得超乾身, 臘味絕無半點"油益" 味道..........靚料! 食落絕無半點油膩飽漲感, 而且臘味甘香撲鼻而來........功夫一流!!!



紅荳沙要煲都起沙唔難, 但係要煲都起沙得嚟唔削又軟綿綿, 就一啲都唔簡單, 食落仲有淡淡的炭火香味, 據同事epo告知, 佢地係用炭爐煲足廿四小時!!! 而資料報導話: 廚師很有耐心地把豆殼撇開, 留下的是真正的沙, 再用生粉打個獻使沙和湯連接在一起......... 簡直人都癲!!!


是晚令我品嘗到一些久違了的味道, 享用一餐唔知仲有無下次的晚飯, 同埋認識到一個傳奇人物的故事, 多謝老闆!!!

只有兩個遺憾, 第一就係無同artman一齊嚟, 第二就係掛住打牌無添食紅荳沙就走咗........晒料!!! 是晚每一道菜我都encore, 有些更添完再添 因為分量實在很足, 十三個人, 十六,七個人分量..........!!!!!!!

咁到底一圍要幾錢呢? 好似要$12,800.........我落樓就$1,100! 我覺得ok喎....... 唔算貴!!!! 不過各友人唔好問我點樣可以訂檯, 第一佢地好似無名片呢樣嘢!!! 而據我所知, 佢地好似凈係做熟客, 即係你要係某某富豪啲friend呀, 再搭上搭先至做!!!!!!

10 則留言:

阿寶 Francis 提到...

嘩~~~~~~~~~~每人1100.................OH MY GOD~~~
我好貧苦.....但係好似樣樣都好名貴~!
仲要整到勁好食.....好想試.....

Alan So 提到...

係真係好好好好好食!!!!!

naruto 提到...

$1100.....
我唔識食,留番慢慢摵好過啦

爛 铜 提到...

幾乎相同的菜 , 幾乎一模一樣,沒有包裝... Boooooore!!!!!!

ks 提到...

well, way interested in it. and sheung wan is pretty close.

Alan So 提到...

naruto: $1,100 is very expensive....but, as i say......may be no more chance to enjoy next time..... for me..... i think it's worth to spend it!

broken_black: may be you are right, but for me...... it's worth to taste this dinner even the materials almost the same!

ks: quite near my home.... just 10 mins walk.

readandeat 提到...

嘩,咁富貴嘅嘢,睇怕要搵人請才可以試了。哈哈哈﹗

Alan So 提到...

Readandeat: 其實真係好貴, 不過我係一個幾鍾意食嘢既人, 有一啲嘢係一生人裡面點都要試一次, 無計啦! 個個月食就梗係唔得啦......就算荷包頂得順, 膽固醇都會超標...... 爆血管都似!!!!

shushu 提到...

I've been there couple times when I am a little kid. My father brought us there for Shark Fin Soup. Each Shark Fin is as thick as or even thicker than a toothpick and is served on a big deep plate. Each person got a big scoop of shark fin from that big deep plate... yummy... The place is pretty old... thanks for sharing and bring back lots of those good memories...=)

Alan So 提到...

Shushu,

Nice to meet u!